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| Una delle edizioni più interessanti del libro di Pellegrino Artusi, La scienza in cucina e l'arte di mangiar bene, Salani, Firenze s.d. ca. inizio Novecento (immagine dal link) |
Chi colleziona libri di cucina sa che il libro più prezioso sull'argomento è quello di Pellegrino Artusi, che ha subìto moltissime ristampe (la prima è di Landi, 1891) da editori differenti e che vende bene in quasi ogni edizione cosiddetta "d'epoca".
" (...) la prima raccolta scritta in toscano aperta ai piatti dell'Emilia e della Romagna, di Roma e del Napoletano, della Lombardia e del Veneto, destinata ad arricchirsi di riedizione in riedizione sino al 1911. A redigerla e a pubblicarla a proprie spese fu un commerciante originario di Forlimpopoli, Pellegrino Artusi, emigrato in Firenze per vendervi la seta, un autodidatta che frequentava le società dotte e le trattorie fini.
Viaggiando per l'Italia l'Artusi aveva assaggiato maccheroni a Napoli, saltimbocca a Roma, risotto a Milano, così nella sua casa toscana, affiancato dalla cuoca toscana Marietta Sabatini e del "servente" forlivese Francesco Ruffilli, aveva ripetuto e trascritto in forma di ricette le diverse esperienze gustative.
La sua era una cucina di casa e di quelle trattorie che rispecchiavano i gusti e le pratiche casalinghe; cucina di mercato, principalmente quello fiorentino, con i suoi ritmi stagionali, le sue primizie e i suoi prezzi flessibili.
Pellegrino Artusi elaborò le sue ricette spogliandole dei francesismi e delle leziosità aristocratiche, calcolando costi e risultati, come si addiceva a un padrone di casa attento.
La scrittura e la stampa del libro gli erano suggerite da un nobile scopo: dare alle famiglie un esempio di buon gusto e piatti preparabili in ogni città.
Membro della Giovine Italia, pur essendo un patriota, l'Artusi attribuì alle cucine regionali italiane un peso diverso, e in alcuni casi nullo."
Who collects cooking books knows that the most precious is Pellegrino Artusi'sone, which was reprinted many times (the first is Landi's, 1891) by different publishers and which sells good in every old edition.
I leave the word to the site taccuinistorici.it for its description:
"(...) the first hand written Tuscan collection open to Emilian and Romagnan plates, Roman and Neapolitan, but also to Lombardian and Venetian ones, which was enriched from edition to edition up to 1911.
It was published by a merchant from Forlimpopoli, Pellegrino Artusi, emigrated in Florence to sell the silk. A self-educated man who used to hang out with refined and intelectual people.
So during his travels around Italy he tasted maccheroni in Naples, saltimbocca in Rome, risotto in Milan and then in his house in Tuscany, supported by the chef Marietta Sabatini and the assistant forlivesian Francesco Ruffilli, he repeated and translated his experiences in recipes.
His cooking was quite homemade and it respected tradition: food from the market, mainly florentine, with its seasonal rhythms and flexible prices.
Pellegrino Artusi invented his recipes leaving out French influences and aristocratic elements, calculating costs and results, as it's requested by a careful owner.
The book was born for a worthy cause: giving to families and example of good taste and plates that you can prepare in every town.
He was a member of the Giovine Italia, although he was patriot, and he gave to Italian Regional cooking a different weight, sometimes also null."
Who collects cooking books knows that the most precious is Pellegrino Artusi'sone, which was reprinted many times (the first is Landi's, 1891) by different publishers and which sells good in every old edition.
I leave the word to the site taccuinistorici.it for its description:
"(...) the first hand written Tuscan collection open to Emilian and Romagnan plates, Roman and Neapolitan, but also to Lombardian and Venetian ones, which was enriched from edition to edition up to 1911.
It was published by a merchant from Forlimpopoli, Pellegrino Artusi, emigrated in Florence to sell the silk. A self-educated man who used to hang out with refined and intelectual people.
So during his travels around Italy he tasted maccheroni in Naples, saltimbocca in Rome, risotto in Milan and then in his house in Tuscany, supported by the chef Marietta Sabatini and the assistant forlivesian Francesco Ruffilli, he repeated and translated his experiences in recipes.
His cooking was quite homemade and it respected tradition: food from the market, mainly florentine, with its seasonal rhythms and flexible prices.
Pellegrino Artusi invented his recipes leaving out French influences and aristocratic elements, calculating costs and results, as it's requested by a careful owner.
The book was born for a worthy cause: giving to families and example of good taste and plates that you can prepare in every town.
He was a member of the Giovine Italia, although he was patriot, and he gave to Italian Regional cooking a different weight, sometimes also null."
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